Sunday, June 20, 2021

CATEGORY

Culture

People who like sexting are more likely to be narcissists

Do you like sexting? Bad news, if so! You’re more likely to have dark personality traits, according to a new study. A team of international researchers looked at the common personality traits of people who loved to sext. They found that those that were a fan of sexting were more likely to have two of the traits that make up the so-called Dark Triad - Machiavellianism and narcissism.  Narcissism is generally associated with having an inflated sense of self and a lack of empathy for other people, whereas Machiavellianism is associated with manipulating others and having a lack of morals. So, all in all, not great personality characteristics to have.  In the study, researchers completed surveys of more than 6000 people across 11 countries and looked at whether they took part in three different types of sexting - ‘experimental’, ‘risky’ and ‘aggravated’.  ‘Experimental’ was your pretty standard consensual exchange of sexual content, whereas ‘risky’ looked at sexting alongside other behaviours, such as while drinking, taking drugs or sending sexts to strangers online.  ‘Aggravated’, on the other hand, was the extremely not cool type, referring to sharing someone else’s sexts without their consent or coercing someone into sending sexts.  The study found that across all types of sexting, people who enjoyed sending nudes and the like scored higher on measures of narcissism and Machiavellianism, meaning they were more likely to have traits like having a big ego or being cunning and manipulative. ‘Risky’ and ‘Aggravated’ sexters also were more likely to score higher on the third Dark Triad trait of psychopathy, which is characterised by antisocial behaviour and selfishness. The study also found some gender-based differences, with men “more likely to be involved in risky sexting and in both forms of aggravated sexting”, according to the researchers. They were also more likely to be involved in sexting under pressure, such as from a partner.  In good news (I guess?), the study didn’t find a substantial correlation between sexting and the third Dark Triad personality trait of psychopathy if you were just your standard ‘experimental’ sexter.  To which we say, send that nude! (If it’s consensual and you want to, of course…) Follow i-D on Instagram and TikTok for more news.

Netflix's new Italian meta-horror isn't quite what it seems

Netflix has been really going for it it lately with its range of international horror films, but new offering A Classic Horror Story looks like it’s trying to be one of its most ambitious yet. As a genre, horror can be pretty self aware, relying on often used tropes (let’s go into the creepy abandoned house!) in a self-referential way. It can either turn out as satire or a clever analysis of horror in general, depending on which vibe the film is going for. A Classic Horror Story looks like its aiming to be the latter. Billed by the streaming platform as “Midsommar meets Texas Chain Saw Massacre”, the Italian film takes a variety of instantly recognisable horror tropes and repackages them into a movie which, despite its title, looks like it’s going to be anything but typical. The film starts with a group of people who get stranded after their campervan breaks down on a trip in Southern Italy (so far, so typical). Trying to figure out where to go next, they get lost and stumble across a creepy-looking cabin in the woods, when one of them jokes: “Why hasn’t anybody said it yet? This is a classic horror movie.” From there, the trailer runs through scenes that look like they’ve been lifted from iconic horror films - torture devices that look like something found in Saw, a cult-like gathering similar to Midsommar, wooden masks similar to Friday the 13th villain Jason Vorhees (we could go on…) - as the characters become aware that everything is not what it seems.  The official synopsis reads: “A camper. A car crash. An abandoned house. Children’s music in the background. Think you’ve seen it before? Look again.” The trailer doesn’t give too much of the actual plot away, it does promise that the film’s meta-universe is not what it appears to be on the surface. “You feel like you’ve already seen it,” it says in bloody handwriting. “Take a closer look.” The film is directed by Roberto De Feo and Paolo Strippoli and stars Matilda Lutz, Will Merrick, Yuliia Sobol, Justin Korovkin and more. It’ll be available for streaming on Netflix from 14 July. You can watch the gory trailer below. 

The true story surrounding Digga D's censorship controversy

Digga D, one of Britain’s brightest young musical stars, wasn’t able to talk with me for his i-D cover story – his debut cover story – due to restrictions surrounding his license conditions. A Criminal Behaviour Order was placed upon the 20-year-old rapper (he turns 21 in June) in 2018, after being sentenced to a year in prison for conspiracy to commit violent disorder with members of his drill collective, 1011. This has meant that Digga is no longer allowed to see the friends he grew up with in West London’s Ladbroke Grove and, perhaps more shockingly, his art must be shared with the establishment, with detailed lyrics, within 24 hours of him releasing it to his fans.Can you imagine being one of the hottest names in music, with the world at your feet, and not being able to live out your dreams to the fullest? The artist born Rhys Herbert knows his past is a tarnished one – he’s been locked up a number of times for breaching the suffocating constraints of his CBO – but this ongoing fight to silence his voice feels personal at this point. “I’m just used to it now,” Digga told me when I spoke to him last year. “It’s still stressful but it’s something that you learn to adapt to.” In November 2020, Digga D released a documentary with BBC Three, aptly titled Defending Digga D. The hour-long film went into great detail about the Criminal Behaviour Order and how he navigates through the world with it hanging over his head. “At this stage of his career, Digga should have had a face-to-face interview with someone like you, JP, and been on radio up and down the land,” says Kwabs, co-founder of Mixtape Madness, over Zoom, in a room which also includes Digga D’s lawyer, Cecilia Goodwin, and his manager, Bills. “I think Covid, plus all the restrictions he’s had, has made it really difficult for even him to comprehend how big a musician he is in this country.” Digga D wears vest Calvin Klein. Trousers Supreme. Scarf DIOR. Jewellery (worn throughout) model’s own. Cecilia Goodwin, who works full time with Digga D and his hands on team, was one of the driving forces behind last year’s gripping documentary (whose director, Marian Mohamed, received a BAFTA nod off the back of it). His case, she says, was like nothing she had ever worked on before – he was one of the first artist’s to receive a CBO that directly affects his music – but it was a challenge she was ready to take on. “Digga was referred to me through another Black lawyer I know, who gave Kwabs my details,” she says. “Kwabs contacted me and basically said, ‘Here’s an artist who needs help, who hasn’t got bail, and he needs a solicitor.’ I ended up working with him when he was in custody, having been arrested for violent disorder and breach of his Criminal Behaviour Order. That’s how our journey started. But what drew me to Digga was just how ambitious he was; how talented and how much of a nice person he was. Such a nice kid. He had everything against him, but he had a lot to win. And I just thought, ‘I want to be a part of this journey,’ because I felt it was going to take us somewhere in history. And it did, because he’s doing amazing things right now.” Indeed, he is. To date, Digga D’s two mixtapes – Double Tap Diaries from 2019 and this year’s Made In The Pyrex – have both charted high, the latter at number three and the former in the Top 20. And that’s saying nothing of his batch of Top 40 singles, most notably “No Diet” and “Woi” – both of which he has Silver plaques for – and his AJ Tracey collab, “Bringing It Back”, which charted at number five. Digga D started out in music six years ago alongside his 1011 cohorts (now known as CGM), just as UK drill was kicking through the door as a force to be reckoned with. Influenced by the reggae and dancehall played in his Jamaican household as a child, his style of rapping – hard-hitting, leaving no pocket unturned – was a perfect fit for UK drill. The movement, inspired by the Chicago drill scene of the early 2010s, with elements of grime and road rap, fit the reality of life in London in the mid-to-late 2010s. It was in 2017 that everything changed for Digga D. He dropped a Next Up? freestyle with 1011 on Mixtape Madness, his star shining the brightest, and his career sky-rocketed from that point on. “I came across Digga on YouTube,” says Bills, who’s been managing the artist since 2017. “The track that drew my attention was a 1011 song called “No Hook”. He had some mad verse on there. I was working at Mixtape Madness at the time and I got him to do the Next Up? freestyle. The rest is history.” All clothing Burberry. Kwabs was grateful for Bills’ eye for talent. “He was creating a lot of content, A&Ring and bringing the talent to Mixtape Madness, and he was mad excited about Digga D. The rest of us felt that. West London and drill just wasn’t on the map. There were one or two drill artists that were kinda making noise from that side of the city, but we hadn’t really had any drill artists from inner West London, like the Notting Hill or Ladbroke Grove areas. From that premise, he was a point of curiosity. But when we uploaded the Next Up? freestyle, there was really no looking back from there. It went crazy!” Working closely with Digga’s day-to-day management team, Kwabs is committed to the cause. “In terms of my bond with Digga and his family, that came from a more unfortunate place: when he got recalled and the Next Up? freestyle got taken down,” he explains. “I had to go to court in June and I argued why Digga is such a bright young talent, and how music can play a key part in transitioning his career. We brought his 10 million plays plaque for his Next Up? and, at the time, I think it’d done like 30 million views in five months. So, we’ve gone there, and the minute they’ve given the verdict, the police remove the Next Up? from our YouTube channel. That kinda put things into context for me, like: ‘That’s how the system’s working in relation to this young man? I’m fully involved. Let’s get cracking.’” This campaign to silence Black art is far from new. Remember Form 696? It was the racist risk assessment form that venues and club promoters had to fill out when grime, garage and bashment (i.e. Black music) was being played and performed. That was created in 2005 during a clampdown on grime, also once deemed a ‘violent’ genre, which was scrapped in 2017 after London Mayor Sadiq Khan reviewed its existence. Two years later, the Met Police gave Brixton drill duo Skengdo x AM a suspended jail sentence for performing the song Attempted 1.0 – they were given a gang injunction for it in 2018, but it was rightfully scrapped at the top of this year. “Instead of muzzling what drill is trying to tell us, we need to see it as a rich, organic resource with which impactful conversations between educators and the most anxious, angry young people can be mined,” journalist, author and youth worker Ciaran Thapar wrote in a piece for The Guardian, and I couldn’t agree more. With so much to carry on his shoulders, Digga’s team says he’s doing the best he can for someone in such a restricting position. Tracksuit Supreme. T-shirt Sunspel. “Working with him, I’ve probably got a few extra grey hairs and a few more wrinkles,” Cecilia says, “but I wouldn’t change it for the world. He drives me mad sometimes because he’s just one of those people who has so much energy for whatever it is he’s doing and is very impulsive. But that’s not to say that he’s reckless or anything; there are just times when, because he’s so excited and in such a hurry, he wants to do everything right away. He doesn’t necessarily see tomorrow the way we see tomorrow.” Bills concurs. “What Cecilia said about him wanting to do everything now, I think that’s the biggest challenge dealing with him as a person,” he says. “With him going to jail a few times, I think he’s just trying to catch up – trying to find a balance of at least letting himself feel like he’s catching up to a degree, but not overdoing anything to the point where he’s ruining the trajectory of his career or putting his freedom in jeopardy.” Through it all, Digga D’s story – though unfortunate in parts – is an inspirational one. Obstacles will stand in your way, but only you have the power to remove them and set yourself free. Now in a happy relationship with the British model Mya Mills, and with droves of new fans coming in with each play, Rhys has a lot to live for and to be happy about, and no opp can stop his ascension. “Digga D is at a certain place in his career where he’s about to break big time,” Bills says when asked for details on his upcoming debut album. A lot of exciting things are being planned, which, for obvious reasons, they can’t divulge just yet. “But the fans need to bear with him so he can try and find a balance between keeping them happy and also doing what’s best for his life and his career. Just know that he’s got everyone in the long run, innit.” Tracksuit Supreme. T-shirt Sunspel. Scarf Hermès. Trainers (worn throughout) Nike. Socks Calvin Klein Underwear. All clothing Ambush. Gloves Budd. Vest Calvin Klein. Trousers Supreme. Scarf DIOR. Jacket Prada Linea Rossa. Goggles Oakley. Credits Photography Liz Johnson ArturStyling Max Clark Grooming Bari Khaliue using Mac Cosmetics.Photography assistance Mathias Karl Gontard.Styling assistance Marina de Magalhaes and Giulia Bandioli.Production Yasser Abubeker.Special thanks Rachel Campbell.Casting Director Samuel Ellis Scheinman for DMCASTING.

Romantic sportswear and Romeo Beckham for Saint Laurent: What's in fashion?

Hello my stylish lovelies! How time has flown since we saw you last! This week, we’re bringing you collabs, darling — from blockbuster partnerships like Burberry x SSENSE and Dior x sacai to Romeo Beckham’s appearance in the new Saint Laurent campaign. Not forgetting, of course, the the latest from Asics and Kiko Kostadinov’s ongoing pair-up. We’ve also got Gucci furniture, fashion fundraisers, and an interview with the editor of the world’s first ‘bagazine’! What does that mean, you ask? Read on and find out! Here’s what’s in fashion.Image courtesy of Burberry Burberry and SSENSE take a bite out of the Big Apple This week in titanic collaborations, London mainstay Burberry has paired up with Montreal fashion monolith SSENSE on an offline/online multidisciplinary experience. What exactly does that mean, you ask? Well, those based in New York can head down to the British house’s SoHo flagship (not to be confused with Soho flagships; more on that later) to find out. There, you’ll be greeted with Imaginary Cities, an immersive, site-specific project comprising the new Mythical Alphabet capsule -- a collection of trenches, tees, silk shirts and more designed in collaboration with Peter Saville and Jo Ratcliffe celebrating the Burberry animal kingdom -- and A-B-City, a short film by Torso Solutions. Starring a diverse cast that includes Lourdes Leon and Selyna Brillare, it offers an abstract meditation on coping with extreme change and life in New York City, with vignettes written by Natasha Stagg, Brontez Pearl and Juliana Huxtable. Not in the Big Apple right now? Well, you can experience it all here, too! What a time to be alive. MS Dior just made mopeds chic If you’re not heading anywhere sunny this summer, then you’re just gonna have to bring the vaycay vibes to wherever you are! Few things transport us straight to a holiday state of mind than seeing a Vespa, the Italian motorscooters synonymous with sun-drenched stays in Naples, Sorrento or Rome. If you thought that Vespa couldn’t get any more chic, though, then you were wrong! Enter Maria Grazia Chiuri — a native Roman, who undoubtedly spent much time on the back of a Vespa — and her redesign of the zippy two-wheeler for Dior, complete with a luxurious top case in the House’s iconic Oblique canvas. With calf leather and gold-effect finishings, it’ll give even the most tedious of journeys a much-needed dash of luxe va-va-voom! MS Photography Brett Lloyd. Image courtesy of Dior Dior x sacai brings our fashion collab dreams to life Wait! There’s more Dior! If there’s any designer out there that knows that collaboration is the name of the game today, it is, of course, Kim Jones. Time after time, he’s delivered some of the most innovative co-branded moments in contemporary menswear history, from his seismic Supreme partnership at Louis Vuitton through to the instantly viral Air Dior sneakers. With his latest, he once again goes above and beyond, this time tapping the inimitable Chitose Abe of sacai. Riffing on the Japanese label’s central doctrine of hybridity, the capsule takes the core codes of both houses -- Kim’s Dior’s tailoring savoir-faire and sacai’s future-leaning, tech-y sensibility, for example -- to create garments and accessories that ooze a sense of heightened functionality. Think Saddle flap tool bags, top-handle totes and Japanese denim workwear pieces with couture finishings -- think utilitarian, but damn fucking chic! MS Independent designers rally together for the greater good Heroes come in many forms, but you know one when you see one. Case in point: APOC. The online marketplace celebrating a new generation of fashion and design creatives has teamed up with Creatives 4 Systemic Change (C4SC) to raise funds to tackle racism and discrimination. The fundraiser is set to run from 20 to 27 June, and this year’s raffle will consist of designers and artists from APOC store such as Sinéad O’Dwyer, WED Studio and Khanh Brice Nguyen will be donating their very own, lovingly hand-made pieces into an online raffle that you have the chance of winning for just £10. Yes, you read that right: a tenner could bag you a priceless work of art! More importantly, the sale is in service of a great cause. This year, all funds raised will be donated to organisations supporting Asian communities in light of rising hate crimes, and will support Asian garment workers that have suffered as a result of the pandemic. So go on, reach into your pockets, find that tenner and put it to a good cause. Not all heroes wear capes, after all. KK Image courtesy of Gucci Your favourite Italian house wants to upgrade your home Take a look at your surroundings. Is there something missing? A fabulous cushion perhaps? An antiqued silver-plated fork and spoon with a lion’s head? An exquisitely botanical-print set of porcelain tableware? Not to worry. Gucci is here to upgrade your interiors game. The Italian house’s new homeware collection, titled New Romantics and designed by Alessandro Michele himself, is the kind of wildly decadent objet de maison that will instantly turn a house into a… home? Please. More like a palace! Entirely made in Italy, the level of craftsmanship is equally ornate. The personalisable cutlery, for instance (because if you aren’t eating off initial-monogrammed forks, can you even taste food?) undergo more than 20 stages of manufacturing — the delicate shapes achieved by hand-moulding, and the leoline motifs hand-finished by expert chiselling. They even come in a quilted satin case that could easily double as a decorative ornament. If you’re going to be staying at home this summer, you may as well do it in style, right? OA Photography Alessandro Tranchini. Images courtesy of Chloé Nardin Chloé Nardin’s softer take on sportswear It’s no secret that the climate for fresh fashion talent has hardly been welcoming over the past 15 months, and yet so many graduate designers have gone on to thrive at a time when the odds were stacked against them. A testament to their tenacity is Chloé Nardin, the London-based French designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins’ MA Fashion programme in March of this year. Since leaving the King’s Cross institution, she’s committed her time developing pieces from her graduate collection -- a celebration of “French suburbs, the South, football and romanticism”, as she told us back then -- into a capsule that she’s just launched for sale on her own e-store! Here, she tells us all about it. First off, how's life been since graduating? I haven’t stopped really… I am somebody that works off stress -- if I feel anxious, there is just no way I will take a break. I’ve always dreamt of taking the entrepreneurial route, and I was like, “Girl, it's now or never!” It’s a lot to take on but I am so happy to be doing it while it lasts! And I actually love the business side of things, doing design can sometimes be unpredictable, and almost mystical, so this more pragmatic part of my job really grounds me. Tell us about the collection you're launching on your new e-store. I really wanted to do something with my graduate collection. As students, you work so hard on the design, spending months and months thinking through every detail… And often, you know, no one ends up wearing it! I took the pieces that had the most commercial potential and I worked on different colourways. Most of my fabric comes from Provence, in the South of France -- really cute cottons printed with the region’s symbols: cicadas, olives. It made for a great sense of contrast with the really 90s-influenced sportswear silhouette of the pieces. Photography Alessandro Tranchini. Image courtesy of Chloé Nardin Tell us about the editorial you worked on with Alessandro and Sarah. You chose to shoot the talents in their own homes. Why is that? I contacted my friend Ale who is a genius at portraiture. He does these precious shots where he would be posted in a corner of the room, zooming in on the subject, which allowed the talents to not have a lens in their face, and for him to capture something really natural. That’s also why we chose to shoot them in a familiar environment, to keep it spontaneous and, ultimately, highlight the garment's comfort and wearability. Also, a lot of my inspiration comes from night/home wear -- I love the allure and nonchalance it gives. There’s this beanie, for example, that’s inspired by vintage nightcaps, and it really gives off such a cool, ‘jaded’ vibe but is also freakin’ chic! What impression of the Chloé Nardin world do you hope people get from these images? We really wanted to photograph the clothes on a mixed cast -- until now, I had only shown my work on men and the clothes really are for anyone to wear. My work qualifies as menswear but the term really doesn't mean anything anymore, does it? That's really what I love about sportswear: it’s beyond gender, but in a way that isn’t ‘fashion’. A hoodie is a hoodie! The sportswear industry, though, can be quite masc -- that’s why I love to bring in elements that are super ‘sweet’ and that nicely clash with that vibe. There is something quite romantic in my designs, but in a way that I aim to be cool and playful. And I always imagine that whoever’s wearing it as a bit of a flirt… 😉 It’s time to go Cruisin’ It’s that time of year again! The sun is out, the weather is warm — it’s time to go cruising! Take your mind out of the gutter. We’re talking about the Cruise 2022 shows, of course, which kicked off this week (well, technically last month with Chanel) in fabulous destinations around the world. Louis Vuitton made a case for marching band jackets at Axe Majeur and Dior took its travelling show to Athens, to an ancient sports stadium where Maria Grazia Chiuri showed — you guessed it — sportswear! Need catching up? We’ve got you covered. Head here for everything you need to know. OA Image courtesy of Saint Laurent Paris. Saint Laurent is bringing it home for the boys Romeo, Romeo, where art thou, Romeo? Oh, there you are — in the new Saint Laurent menswear campaign! Yes, your favourite mini Beckham has set teen hearts aflutter in Anthony Vaccarello’s new collection (teeeeeny short-shorts, chequerboard polo top, silk cravat). But the celebutante is just a teaser for the main event… Saint Laurent’s AW21 menswear collection. Full of all the classic hallmarks of the French house, it’s a continuation of the wardrobe classics that Anthony has made his calling card… biker bombers, silk shirts, lean tailoring, lots and lots of leopard. As one sweatshirt puts it: “The secret is to stay cool!” Mission accomplished. OA Welcome to London, Daily Paper! Daily Paper, the Dutch label that is perennially inspired by the rich heritage of African culture and streetwear, has just arrived in London. This weekend, a vast two-floor flagship will open its doors on Great Pulteney Street in the heart of Soho, housing the Amsterdam-based label’s colourful creations, as well as acting as a space for community events and performances by talent from London’s wider boroughs. The first? UNITE, a performance by grime artists Ghetts, Elheist, BDE x FLEX, and ENNY. We caught up with Hussein Suleiman, one the brand’s original founders (it was set up by three childhood friends) to find out more… **Hi Hussein! You’ve just opened a store in London. What makes it different to other boutiques in the city? **The first thing is that it’s a flagship store where we only carry Daily Paper clothing. Next to our collections, we use our physical spaces to provide authentic experiences for our community. We’d like our flagship stores to be a hub for like-minded people to meet and inspire each other. There is a story and a thought behind everything you see in the store and through in-store community activations. **Is there a particular reason you chose to open in Soho? **With Jefferson [Osei] and Abderrahmane [Trabsini], we have been visiting London for many, many years and our favourite shopping area has always been Soho. That’s where we go to buy new clothes. In my opinion, it’s one of the best shopping areas in the world and I think it fits our brand very well. **How would you describe Amsterdam style vs London style? **There are both similarities and differences between the two. I can see that people in London are much more individualistic and expressive in their style, which I like a lot. I think there is more diversity in the UK compared to Amsterdam in terms of style, and I can’t wait to see which of our items will be favoured by our London community. Can you tell us a bit more about your CYPHER project? With the Daily Paper: Unite Sessions, we are championing a series of in-house produced live performances featuring Ghetts, ENNY, BDE X FLEX and Elheist. The performances spotlight London’s iconic and grassroots talent by celebrating all four corners of the city. With these exclusive freestyles, we aim to bring attention to the importance and impact of creativity, community and heritage. **What’s the one thing you can find in the London store that you won’t find anywhere else? **Our London flagship store tee and hoodie are exclusives that you can only find there. **And who’s your dream customer? **Michael Jackson when he went on a shopping spree in Las Vegas. Image courtesy of Asics Asics and Kiko Kostadinov just created the summer’s must-have sneaker Asics SportStyle’s new silhouette is the sign that you’ve been waiting for -- girl, get yourself some more shoes! Developed alongside the Kiko Kostadinov womenswear studio, led by Laura and Deanna Fanning, the new footwear brings comfortability and authenticity together to create the perfect modern day sneaker design. It’s the latest in a long line of trainers from ASICS and Kiko Kostadinov, who have built one of fashion’s favourite collaborative relationships since they dropped their first pair, the GEL-Burz 1, in spring 2018. Since then, they’ve continued to push boundaries together by combining eccentric, graphic chic and robust sporty forms. Did someone say you can’t be sporty and cute? Buy these shoes and 👏 prove 👏 them 👏 wrong!! KK Behold, the world’s first ‘bagazine’! Fashion geek squad, unite! A new magazine made with you in mind -- yes, you! -- has just landed. We’re talking about Viscose, the bag-shaped bible for anyone with a beyond-the-surface interest in all things mode. For its inaugural issue, the team, headed up by Jeppe Ugelvig, broached one of fashion’s most fundamental, yet mercurial, aspects: style. Compiling contributions from some of the sharpest writers, artists and thinkers around, it’s a rigorous, punchy treatise on fashion’s fixation with image, brimming with brains and wit. Ahead of the publication’s London launch event tonight at Tenderbooks in Leicester Square, the Danish critic, curator and fashion theorist fills us in on the choice of name, Viscose’s mission objective, and the reasons behind its ‘bagazine’ form. MS Hi Jeppe! So, Viscose. First off, what’s behind the title? We wanted a title that felt resonant both to our object of study and our methodology. Viscose has been a ubiquitous material in the modern fashion industry since it was first introduced as ‘artificial silk’ in the late 19th century. However, it’s not actually artificial in the sense of a synthetic textile like polyester: it’s made of wood pulp! This neither/nor state felt resonant for our approach to fashion criticism and publishing. We exist as a rare space between art and fashion, academia and publishing, research and entertainment. And finally, like any good name, it’s a global word, even if most people get confused about how to pronounce it. What niche are you trying to fill? What worlds are you trying to bridge? Viscose wants to be a journal for the intellectual fashion community. We cut across industries, systems and geographies, and pursue the most original, ingenious research on fashion in a broad variety of forms, but with a particular focus on writing. Fashion is the most emblematic activity of global capitalist society, and we want to use it as a prism to study disparate topics such as identity, the body, aesthetics, politics, ecology, and philosophy. We detest dogmatic approaches to knowledge, and try to re-invent the very idea of fashion criticism with every issue. By bridging the worlds of art, academia, and fashion, we want to cultivate a unique community of readers and thinkers and to prove that fashion can not only be smart, but that it’s the smartest thing you could possibly be thinking about! The issue’s theme is ‘style’. What does the term mean to you? And why did it feel it was such a fitting jumping-off point for your inaugural issue? Style is one of those basic units of fashion – it’s about having it, making it, capturing it. Entire industries and professions are built around it -- the stylist, a kind of professional style-worker, being a case in point. And yet, very little is written about style. It’s such an ephemeral notion that it almost feels embarrassing to discuss. Secondly, we’re interested in today’s increasingly stylist-driven fashion world, in which the creative director has overtaken the designer as the most important fashion author. In the age of Instagram, immaterial fashion production like image-making seems to have taken centre stage, so we asked ourselves: What would criticism that begins by addressing fashion as an image look like? Could you briefly give us an insight into how the theme is explored across the issue? You’ll find an exhilarating variety of approaches in the issue, from Taylore Scarabelli’s analysis of today’s most important stylists to insights into Avena Gallagher’s cult styling archive. Dena Yago has been collecting images of human dogpiles in fashion photography for years, and Hito Steyerl uses Balenciaga’s branding as a case study for state politics in the former Eastern bloc. We’ve reprinted a fantastic art-world street-style lexicon by Ada O’Higgins and Burke Batelle (aka Chicken), and invited artist Davide Stucchi to reflect on the style of music used in fashion shows. The issue will definitely teach you a million new things about style, but may ultimately leave you more confused. Oh, and why a ‘bagazine’? It was important for us to celebrate print publishing while pushing its limits – in a hyperdigital age, the physical magazine has and must change character. Designers Filip Samuel Berg and Laura Silke responded to the theme of the issue, looking at how objects of style are eternal and do particularly well on the internet. Telfar’s “Bushwick Birkin” bag, which is extensively discussed in the issue, is one recent example of a style object that cultivates its own viral energy. Could a magazine do the same, we asked ourselves? What can a magazine do as an object? What’s next for Viscose? In the coming years, we will be releasing a steady flow of issues on highly specific topics, and hopefully continuously re-define our format, style, and community of readers. At the same time, we will be building an open-access digital archive for readers to dive into all our content; we believe in total accessibility! Stay tuned for more. 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Binx explores silhouette in a new fashion story

Binx’s story originally appeared in i-D's The New Worldwi-De Issue, no. 363, Summer 2021. Order your copy here.Binx wears trousers Mila Taylor-Young. All clothing Chanel. All clothing Supriya Lele AW21. Jumper Gucci vintage from Artifact New York. Trousers Puppets and Puppets AW21. Jumpsuit JW Anderson AW21. All clothing Supriya Lele AW21. Playsuit Courrèges. Top Prada vintage from Artifact New York. Skirt LRS AW21. Trousers Mila Taylor-Young. Bra and trousers Givenchy AW21. Top stylist’s studio. All clothing Valentino AW21. Jumper Gucci vintage from Artifact New York. Trousers Puppets and Puppets AW21. Jumper Gucci vintage from Artifact New York. Trousers Puppets and Puppets AW21. Credits Photography Stef MitchellStyling Sydney Rose Thomas Hair Joey George at MA+ Talent using Mizani and Dyson.Make-up Miguel Ramos at Bryant Artists using Dior make-up.Set design Mila Taylor-Young.Photography assistance Zack Forsyth, Casanova Cabrera, Daniel Vanderdeen and Marion Grand.Styling assistance Sofia Amaral and Andrea Galvez.Hair assistance Jennifer Covington-Bowers.Set design assistance Kate Atkinson.Production Amber McGloster at CLM.Production assistance Auguste Taylor Young.Casting director Samuel Ellis Scheinman for DMCASTING.Model Binx Walton at Next.

Are OnlyFans going to ban pornography?

OnlyFans, the subscription site primarily known for hosting adult content, is hoping to revamp their association with pornography, to become a space for celebrities and athletes to connect with their fanbases, according to Bloomberg.When the pandemic first hit and unemployment rates skyrocketed across the globe, more people than ever moved into virtual sex work, and in turn OnlyFans boomed in popularity. The UK-based company grew by 553% in 2020 and amassed over 100 million users worldwide. Last year alone, it was reported that the number of OnlyFans creators increased by around 40 percent, while the number of paying users went from 7.5 million to 85 million. The platform has also been name-dropped by some of the biggest stars in the industry, from Beyoncé to Cardi B, and hosts a number of musicians, artists and fitness professionals that have monetised their social media fanbases. Fashion commentator The Kimbino even uses it to host lectures on Black fashion history. Cardi B even launched her own account last August. In an interview with i-D, she said that she moved onto OF because “people are stuck at home more, but also just because I wanted to be on an app where I can talk only and specifically to my fans.” But she doesn’t take issue with those who use it for its better known function: “I don’t have a problem with it, you know what I’m saying? Like, if you’re making money and you’re supporting your family by any means… I do not care.” Following its huge success during the pandemic, OnlyFans is now reportedly seeking a valuation of $1 billion. The platform has also caught the attention of investors and advertisers, some of whom may have been hesitant to do business with the company beforehand. The startup is working alongside an adviser who can help widen its current pool of investors, which will also help them rebuild their image as a mainstream media platform. Its future promises to give viewers an insight into the private, unseen lives of celebrities. So, guess we’ll patiently wait for Rihanna to announce her OnlyFans arrival, offering us BTS of everything from R9 to Fenty. Follow i-D on Instagram and TikTok for more news.

The world’s first virtual idols were really weird

Hanging about in the upper echelons of K-pop -- alongside fellow girl groups BLACKPINK and Itzy -- you'll find SM Entertainment’s aespa. In November they broke records when the neon-lit video for their debut single “Black Mamba” became the fastest first release to surpass 100 million views in the history of the genre. Then, in February, they became Givenchy ambassadors. But there's something different about them… something that seriously sets them apart from their peers. Four out of aespa's eight members are virtual. Or rather, the group's four human members -- Winter, Ningning, Karina and Giselle -- each have an AI version of themselves, a personal, virtual avatar that they exist alongside in photoshoots and films. In a recent presentation, SM Entertainment exec Lee Soo-man spoke of his plans to develop a technology that will allow fans to interact with AI idols. “AI technology will enable customised avatars to fit into people’s lives and people will coexist with their avatars by living together,” he explained. So aespa, along with the likes of green-haired Japanese Vocaloid popstar Hatsune Miku (she of worldwide sell-out tours and Louis Vuitton collaborations) and Kizuna AI (a popular 16-year-old YouTuber and popstar) is where virtual idols are at in 2021. They’re performing alongside IRL singers, appearing on primetime talk shows, fronting campaigns and even dropping #ads in their livestreams. But where did this begin? Who was the proto-CGI idol and who created them?  Well, through the 60s, 70s and 80s there was some semblance of the virtual popstar. Animated TV shows like Josie and the Pussycats, The Archie Show (hi Riverdale!) and Jem and the Holograms centred around cartoon bands making music that, ultimately, viewers wanted to listen to outside of episodes. Their creators released records and many of those records performed well in the charts; The Archies “Sugar, Sugar” was, according to Billboard, the number one song of 1969. It wasn’t until the 90s and early 00s though, with the rise of the internet, that shit got more real. “A new generation of celebrities is threatening to displace actors, actresses and popstars in the minds of the young,” the BBC prophesied in August 2000. “Only this time, they are not real.”  Having perhaps not threatened the creative industries quite as much as anticipated, the virtual idol has still become commonplace in music today. Here are the ones that started it all. Kyoko Date Created in 1996 by Japanese talent agency Horipro, 16-year-old Kyoko Date was one of the first ever AI popstars. Inspired by then-cutting edge computer graphics and the real-world success of fictional singer Lynn Minmay from the Macross anime series, Kyoko (who was supposedly scouted while working in a fast food joint by Tokyo’s Fussa station) was propelled into the public’s consciousness with her popular single “Love Communication”. The song came with a music video typical of the time -- shots of Kyoko singing in the studio spliced with those of her dancing around what appears to be New York. But there was something off about it. People just couldn’t get behind an idol whose movements weren’t altogether human, and so Kyoko shrunk away into obscurity before giving AI fame another go in South Korea three years later, with a new album (Between) and a new name (DiKi). That didn’t work either. Perhaps her daughter, Gen Z YouTuber Ayano Date will have better luck. E-Cyas It’s not often you come across a male virtual idol, but in 1999 this Euro-pop-creating Keanu Reeves look-alike turned up on the internet with his appropriately-titled debut single “Are U Real?”. Created by I-D Media (promise this has nothing to do with us) in collaboration with Edel Records, the track -- voiced by a number of human singers -- was a Top 40 hit in Germany. The name E-Cyas, in case you were wondering, stands for ‘Electronic Cyber Artificial Superstar’ and he was sculpted based on some students’ idea of the perfect 20-year-old man. At the height of his fame, E-Cyas gave a number of magazine interviews and received, according to a feature from February 2000, “an average of 100 emails a day from fans mainly in Germany, Austria and Switzerland”. * Mark all as read * Webbie Tookay Not a popstar but an early idol nonetheless, 1999 also saw the launch of wannabe supermodel Webbie Tookay. Repped by Elite Model Management, Webbie was “signed” to their long gone Illusion 2K division -- a very turn of the millennium name. With features that were apparently borrowed from Tyra Banks and problematically bestowed upon a white CGI woman, she was presented to the world at a press conference in Sao Paulo, appeared in a number of fashion magazines and soon got slated on ABC’s Eyewitness News. As Ricardo Bellino, director of Elite’s new division told The Guardian at the time: "In the future, virtual models are going to become as widely used as real ones." And maybe they will be… in the future. Lil Miquela came and went and while Hatsune Miku has collaborated with big brands, it’s certainly not a regular occurrence. Perhaps Webbie wasn’t worth the $1million she reportedly cost to develop after all.  T-Babe If you watch the UK’s Real Housewives of Jersey, you’ll be familiar with Tessa Hartmann and her husband Sascha. You might not be aware, however, that before they were reality TV stars keeping busy by provoking beloved Atomic Kitten, Kerry Katona, the Hartmanns built one of the first ever virtual popstars. You see, in the year 2000, the couple ran their own label, Glasgow Records. Unable to find the right singer for some dance tracks Sascha had written, they decided to create a CGI character to front the project. Enter: T-Babe. 18, single, lonely, fluent in German, Spanish, Italian and Japanese. Her voice was that of an established American singer (DM us if you know who) that wanted no association with the star. Disappointingly, her only single “PeterPumpkineater” appears to have been removed from the internet, but it earned her a Vogue feature, the title of EW’s Cyber Pin-Up of the Year, and the above TV interview. Gorillaz  The story goes that Blur’s Damon Albarn and Tank Girl creator Jamie Hewlett were watching MTV together one day in their shared London flat, when they decided that enough was enough. "If you watch MTV for too long, it's a bit like hell – there's nothing of substance there,” Jamie told WIRED in 2005. “So we got this idea for a cartoon band, something that would be a comment on that." 20 years on from the release of their debut single “Clint Eastwood” in 2001 (which now has around half a billion views on YouTube), Gorillaz -- four cartoon beings named 2-D, Murdoc Niccals, Noodle and Russel Hobbs -- have won a Grammy, headlined Glastonbury, hosted their own festival and released five albums. This year, to celebrate that momentous anniversary, they launched their Song Machine project featuring artists including Slowthai, Skepta and CHAI. Naturally, as technology has evolved, so has their live set up -- evolving from visuals of the group playing behind a full live band on stage, to the holograms used at the MTV EMAs above. It’s worth watching this interview 2-D and Murdoc did with NME in 2018 too. The Guinness World Records have named Gorillaz the “Most Successful Virtual Band” and we absolutely agree. But how long will it be until aespa take their crown? Follow i-D on Instagram and TikTok for more music.

Nicolas Cage's new movie is like Babe meets Taken

Trust Nicolas Cage to come back out of the woodwork in 2021 with a movie about a man and a pig. His latest project, plainly titled Pig, is a story of a truffle hunter living in the Oregon wilderness when, all of a sudden, the porcine pal who does much of the digging for him, is kidnapped. Of course, that forces him to embark on a violent trip, loaded with memories of his past, to find it. Yes, this is indeed the Babe meets Taken crossover we’ve all been waiting for. In the words of Twitter user @nicolettexp: “‘I’m looking for a truffle pig’ and ‘where’s my pig’ are lines I never knew I needed from Nicolas Cage holy SHIT”The movie was recently picked up by Neon for release in the United States, which is a good sign. Neon, arguably one of the coolest distributors in the country, tend to have excellent taste in movies; they have Parasite, Billie Eilish: The World’s a Little Blurry, Portrait of a Lady on Fire and Beach Rats in their previous release pantheon. Plus, if Guillermo del Toro’s excited, then we should be excited too, right? Pig also stars Hereditary’s Alex Wolff, and during filming, the pair became close friends. “We talk almost every few days,” Alex told Variety in their Just for Variety podcast. “We text all day and he FaceTimed me like two days ago, and we really support each other and help each other with things. We started making the movie when we were both going through very similar personal things in our life and we bonded over it immediately and connected and were very emotionally open with each other. We just became best friends.” Watch the trailer below, and for pig stans in the USA, mark 16 July in your calendars as the date you can run to your nearest movie theatre and see it. We know our queen Sophie Anderson will be there with bells on. Follow i-D on Instagram and TikTok for more movie news.

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